Straight answers, before you even call
Everything customers ask us about pricing, scheduling, parts, coverage, and how we work — answered the same way we'd answer on the phone. Service-specific questions live on each service page.
Quotes and how we price
How much does it cost to have you come out?
Nothing — consultations and quotes are free. You describe the problem, we inspect the door, and you get a plain-English explanation of what's worn and a firm price before any work starts.
Why do repair prices vary between doors?
Because doors vary: panel weight (impact glass weighs far more than single-pane), roller type, how much track damage accumulated while the door was dragging, and how the door has been maintained. We explain exactly which factors apply to yours — and our cost guide on the blog breaks down the economics in depth.
Is repairing really cheaper than replacing the door?
Almost always by a wide margin. A new installed slider commonly costs thousands; the typical repair is a small fraction of that, on a frame and glass that usually have decades of life left. We're a repair-first company for exactly this reason — replacement talk comes only when repair genuinely can't do the job.
Scheduling and service visits
How fast can you get to me?
Port St. Lucie and central Treasure Coast addresses usually get the quickest slots; the north (Vero Beach) and south (Jupiter, Palm Beach Gardens) ends of the route are batched for efficiency. Call 772-722-4036 and we'll give you a real answer for your address rather than a promise.
How long does a typical repair take?
Most single-door roller replacements finish in about an hour on site; screens and locks are similar. Multi-panel systems, seized coastal doors, and whole-home maintenance visits run longer — we'll tell you what to expect when we quote.
Do you offer emergency repairs?
Yes — a door that won't close or lock is a security problem, not an inconvenience, and we prioritize accordingly. Call rather than emailing for anything urgent.
Can you service every sliding door in the house in one visit?
Yes, and it's the most economical way to use us — one visit spreads across all your doors, and we only replace parts that actually need it. It's also how our maintenance plans work for homes and rental properties.
Rollers, tracks, locks, screens and glass: what we work on
Do you carry parts for older doors?
Decades of Florida door brands means decades of roller patterns — and we stock the common ones, including heavy-duty stainless replacements, on the truck. Even 1960s–70s sliders are almost always repairable; their frames outlast their wheels by decades.
What makes your replacement rollers better than the originals?
Most builders fitted plated-steel, open-bearing rollers — a cost decision that Florida's salt air punishes. We fit stainless steel, sealed-bearing hardware sized for the panel's real weight. It typically outlasts the original several times over.
My door is off its track. Should I force it back on?
Please don't — muscling a panel bends track edges and can crack the frame, turning a roller job into a track repair. Leave it where it sits and call; a derailed door is telling you its rollers no longer hold it in alignment.
Do you fix screen doors and screen fabric too?
Yes — re-fabricing screens in your existing frames is one of our most popular services, with standard, pet-resistant, and fine no-see-um mesh available. We service the screen door's rollers in the same visit.
Where we work: Port St. Lucie to Jupiter, Vero Beach to Hobe Sound
Where exactly do you work?
Ten communities from Vero Beach to Palm Beach Gardens — Port St. Lucie (home base), Fort Pierce, Stuart, Jensen Beach, Palm City, Hobe Sound, Port Salerno, Jupiter, and the Gardens. Each has its own page under Service Areas. On the edge of the map? Call — if we can get to you, we will.
Do you work in condo buildings and gated communities?
Constantly. We handle association logistics — certificates of insurance, elevator scheduling, gate access — and we're comfortable coordinating directly with property managers, including for owners who are away for the season.
Do you work with landlords and vacation rentals?
Yes — turnover repairs between guests, pet-resistant screens that survive renters, and standing maintenance calendars for managed properties. Our landlord's checklist on the blog covers the whole system.
Trust and how we work
Are you really local?
Locally owned and operated — started in Palm Beach County, headquartered in Port St. Lucie, and built on Treasure Coast referrals and repeat customers. The Best of 2026 BusinessRate award on our shelf is powered by real Google Reviews from those neighbors.
Will you try to sell me a new door?
No. We're repair-first: if a repair will do the job, that's what we'll recommend, and if a five-minute DIY fix is all you need, we'll tell you that too — it's how a referral business stays one. Replacement only enters the conversation when repair honestly can't deliver.
How do I leave you a review?
It means more than you'd guess — reviews are how neighbors find us. The 'Review us on Google' link at the top of every page takes you straight to the five-star box on our Google listing.
More Questions
How do I know whether it's the rollers, the lock or the track?
Three quick tests separate them. If the door is heavy, grinding or shuddering through its travel, it is the rollers. If it slides acceptably but the latch no longer catches without lifting the handle, it is alignment — a panel that has sunk onto worn rollers, so the lock is a symptom rather than the fault. If it runs freely except at one point, something is in or damaged in the track. Tell us which of the three you have and we can usually name the likely cause before the visit. Detail lives on our symptom index.
When is replacing a sliding door genuinely the right call?
When the frame is the problem rather than the hardware. That means a frame corroded through, structurally bent, or racked by a settled opening that cannot be brought back to square; a failed sill or surrounding structure; or a performance change the existing door cannot have, such as adding an impact rating. Age alone is not on that list, and neither is a door that sticks or will not lock. Frames and glass outlive their hardware by decades, which is why repair is the honest answer on the large majority of doors we see.
Do you work on condo and HOA balcony sliders?
Regularly. The thing worth knowing before you call is that most Florida declarations split a slider: the glass and outer frame usually read as building envelope, while rollers, latch, lock and screen serve your unit alone and typically fall to the owner. Owner-side hardware does not need a board decision. Anything glass, frame or leak related is worth an email to your manager first. Our full guide is who pays for a condo slider.
My house is empty all summer. Why does the door seize?
Because an unused door corrodes faster than a used one. Salt aerosol settles on the bearing surfaces, and salt is hygroscopic, so it pulls moisture out of humid Florida air and holds a brine film against the metal. On a door in daily use, motion wipes that film away. On a door nobody touches for five months, it sits and works all summer. The prevention costs nothing: have whoever checks the property slide every door fully open and closed once a month, then lock it again.
What is the single most useful thing I can do for my sliding door?
Vacuum the track dry, once a month, and never spray oil in it. Florida yards are sand with grass on top, and quartz sand is harder than the aluminum track and harder than the steel in the rollers, so every pass of the door on an unswept track is a lapping operation grinding the two together. An oil-based spray makes it worse by turning that dust into grinding paste and gluing it into the roller housings. Our 10-minute routine is the whole method.
What should I do to my sliders before hurricane season?
Two things above all. Clear the tracks and prove the weep holes on the exterior face actually drain, because most storm damage through a door is water backing up through blocked drainage rather than anything breaking. Then run the ten-second test: close the door, lock it, and try to lift and pull it open. Movement, rattle or a latch that needs coaxing means the door is not storm-ready. Book the work in spring; the same job competes with the entire coast for parts once a storm is named. Full checklist in our hurricane guide.
Where does the repair price start?
Repairs start at $275, and that figure includes parts, labor and a one-to-three-year warranty on both. What moves it from there is the door itself: panel weight, roller type, how much track damage accumulated while the door was dragging, and how many doors are being done in the same visit. Doing every slider in the house in one appointment is the economical way to use us, since the visit is shared across all of them. We explain which factors apply to your door before any work starts, and our cost guide covers the economics in depth.
Are you licensed?
We would rather answer this precisely than let one word do work it has not earned. SliderPro holds a Florida Business Tax Receipt — an occupational license, which is a local business registration to operate. That is not the same thing as a state contractor license, and companies that advertise "licensed" without saying which are relying on you not to ask. What we can stand behind is the work: five years in business, more than 1,600 doors repaired across the Treasure Coast, a one-to-three-year warranty on parts and labor, and 96% of jobs finished in a single visit.
What have other customers said about you?
Our Google listing currently shows a 5.0 rating from more than 170 reviews, we hold the Best of 2026 BusinessRate award, and we are recommended on Nextdoor by neighbors across the Treasure Coast. Those numbers are worth exactly what any set of numbers is worth, which is why we would rather you read the reviews themselves than take the average from us. The pattern we care about is the repeat one: repair-first advice, a straight explanation of what is worn, and a door that works when we leave.
Diagnosing your door: what is actually wrong?
Most people call us with a description rather than a diagnosis, which is the right way round. Still, knowing roughly which system has failed makes the call faster and the visit shorter. Sliding door faults sort into four groups.
- It is heavy, grinding or shuddering. That is the rollers, nearly every time. A wheel that no longer turns freely is being dragged under a couple of hundred pounds of glass. See the seven signs, by stage.
- It slides fine but will not lock. Usually not the lock. Worn rollers let the panel sink, so the latch hook meets the keeper low and slips. Run the two-minute lift test before you buy a lockset.
- It catches at one point in its travel. Something in the track — packed sand, a bent track lip, or a groove worn by a seized roller. Start with a dry track clean.
- It leaks, whistles or fogs. Seals, sweeps, weep holes or a failed insulated glass unit. Different systems, different fixes.
Tell us which of those four your door is doing and we can usually name the likely cause on the phone. Our symptom index covers twelve faults in more detail.
Repair or replace — the honest answer
We are a repair-first company, so it is fair to ask where our honesty runs out. Here is the line, plainly.
Repair is almost always right when the frame and glass are sound. Aluminum frames and glass outlive their hardware by decades. Rollers, latches, keepers, screens, seals and track damage are all serviceable, and a repair costs a small fraction of an installed replacement door. This describes the large majority of doors we are called to.
Replacement genuinely wins in a few cases, and we will say so:
- The frame itself is compromised — corroded through, structurally bent, or racked by a settled or damaged opening that cannot be brought back to square.
- The sill or the surrounding structure has failed, so the door is a symptom of a building problem rather than the problem.
- You want a performance the current door cannot have — impact rating on a non-impact opening is a glazing and frame change, not a repair.
- Parts genuinely cannot be sourced for an unusual system and the workaround compromises the door.
What is not on that list: age on its own, a door that sticks, a broken lock, or a door somebody told you was "too old to fix". Our cost guide sets out the economics.
Condos, HOAs and rental properties
Association buildings and rentals raise questions no other customer asks, so they get their own answers.
Who owns the door. Florida declarations commonly split a slider in two: the glass and outer frame read as building envelope, while the operating hardware — rollers, track wear, latch, lock, screen — serves your unit alone and typically lands on the owner. That is a pattern, not a rule, and your declaration is the only document that answers it for your building.
What that means in practice. Owner-side hardware does not need a board decision, and waiting for one while a dragging panel grinds a groove into the track costs you money. Anything glass, frame or leak related is worth an email to your manager before you commission work.
What may be attached. Uniform-appearance and frame-penetration rules govern secondary locks, glass film and anything visible from outside. Interior track locks and inside-face hardware usually pass; drilling the exterior frame usually does not.
Rentals. Turnover checks, guest-proof hardware, and a maintenance calendar that runs on a schedule rather than on guest complaints.
Full detail in who pays for a condo slider and the rental checklist.
Seasonal and snowbird homes
Seasonal owners get a failure mode nobody warns them about, and it catches people every November.
A door that sits locked and unmoved for five humid months corrodes faster than one used every day. Salt aerosol settles on the bearing surfaces and, because salt is hygroscopic, it pulls moisture out of the air and holds a brine film against the metal. On a door in daily use, motion keeps wiping that film away. On a door nobody touches, it sits and works all summer. That is the summer seize-up: you left a door that slid fine in May and you return to one that will not move.
What prevents it costs nothing. Ask whoever checks the property to slide every door fully open and closed once a month, both directions, then lock it again. One minute per door.
What helps if it has already happened: book the check before you fly back rather than after you land. Same-day service is available when a returning owner finds a seized door, but a scheduled visit is a calmer week than an arrival week. We run this circuit for seasonal owners and property managers from Vero Beach to Palm Beach Gardens every fall. See maintenance service.
Hurricane season and storm preparation
Sliders are the largest openings in most Florida homes, and they are the part of the storm plan that gets skipped.
The thing most people get wrong: storm damage through a door is usually water, not glass, and it comes through the drainage rather than over it. Rain running down the panel collects in the outer track, which is meant to drain through small weep holes on the exterior face. Block those with years of sand and salt crust, add a storm's volume of wind-driven rain pushing inward, and the channel fills, reaches the inner track and overtops the sill onto your floor. Clearing the track and proving the weeps drain is genuine storm prep, not housekeeping.
The ten-second test: close the door, lock it, then try to lift the panel and pull it open. Movement, rattle or a latch that needs the handle lifted means the door is not storm-ready, and the fix underneath is normally routine roller and alignment work.
The timing: book in spring. Every item is routine in April and competes with the whole coast for parts and appointments in the week a storm is named.
The full sequence is in our hurricane prep checklist.
Maintenance you can do yourself
We would rather you did this than called us, and we say so on service visits too.
- Vacuum the track dry, monthly. Crevice tool along both channels, then a brush into the corners, then a wipe. Florida yards are sand with grass on top, and quartz sand is harder than both the aluminum track and the steel in the rollers, so every pass of an unswept door grinds the two together.
- Never use an oil-based spray. It turns loose dust into grinding paste and glues it into the roller housings. The door feels better for a week and worse than ever afterwards. If anything is used, a dry silicone product is the only thing that belongs in a Florida track.
- Check the weep holes twice a year. The small slots on the exterior track face. A pipe cleaner proves they are clear.
- Rinse coastal tracks with fresh water after a storm, then wipe dry and run the door a few times. Storm winds pack salt into every track on the coast.
- Cycle every door monthly if the house sits empty. Motion is what keeps the salt film off the bearings.
The full routine is in our 10-minute track cleaning guide.
Still have a question?
Ask it the fast way — call, or send the form with what your door is doing, and we'll answer the same business day.