Straight answers, before you even call

Nothing — consultations and quotes are free. You describe the problem, we inspect the door, and you get a plain-English explanation of what's worn and a firm price before any work starts.

Because doors vary: panel weight (impact glass weighs far more than single-pane), roller type, how much track damage accumulated while the door was dragging, and how the door has been maintained. We explain exactly which factors apply to yours — and our cost guide on the blog breaks down the economics in depth.

Almost always by a wide margin. A new installed slider commonly costs thousands; the typical repair is a small fraction of that, on a frame and glass that usually have decades of life left. We're a repair-first company for exactly this reason — replacement talk comes only when repair genuinely can't do the job.

Port St. Lucie and central Treasure Coast addresses usually get the quickest slots; the north (Vero Beach) and south (Jupiter, Palm Beach Gardens) ends of the route are batched for efficiency. Call 772-722-4036 and we'll give you a real answer for your address rather than a promise.

Most single-door roller replacements finish in about an hour on site; screens and locks are similar. Multi-panel systems, seized coastal doors, and whole-home maintenance visits run longer — we'll tell you what to expect when we quote.

Yes — a door that won't close or lock is a security problem, not an inconvenience, and we prioritize accordingly. Call rather than emailing for anything urgent.

Yes, and it's the most economical way to use us — one visit spreads across all your doors, and we only replace parts that actually need it. It's also how our maintenance plans work for homes and rental properties.

Decades of Florida door brands means decades of roller patterns — and we stock the common ones, including heavy-duty stainless replacements, on the truck. Even 1960s–70s sliders are almost always repairable; their frames outlast their wheels by decades.

Most builders fitted plated-steel, open-bearing rollers — a cost decision that Florida's salt air punishes. We fit stainless steel, sealed-bearing hardware sized for the panel's real weight. It typically outlasts the original several times over.

Please don't — muscling a panel bends track edges and can crack the frame, turning a roller job into a track repair. Leave it where it sits and call; a derailed door is telling you its rollers no longer hold it in alignment.

Yes — screen fabric replacement in your existing frames is one of our most popular services, with standard, pet-resistant, and fine no-see-um mesh available. We service the screen door's rollers in the same visit.

Fourteen communities from Palm Beach Gardens to Orlando — Port St. Lucie (home base), Fort Pierce, Stuart, Jensen Beach, Palm City, Hobe Sound, Port Salerno, Vero Beach, Jupiter and the Gardens on the Treasure Coast, plus Palm Bay, Merritt Island, Cocoa Beach and Orlando on the northern route. Each has its own page under Service Areas. On the edge of the map? Call — if we can get to you, we will.

Constantly. We handle association logistics — certificates of insurance, elevator scheduling, gate access — and we're comfortable coordinating directly with property managers, including for owners who are away for the season.

Yes — turnover repairs between guests, pet-resistant screens that survive renters, and standing maintenance calendars for managed properties. Our landlord's checklist on the blog covers the whole system.

Locally owned and operated — started in Palm Beach County, headquartered in Port St. Lucie, and built on Treasure Coast referrals and repeat customers. The Best of 2026 BusinessRate award on our shelf is powered by real Google Reviews from those neighbors.

No. We're repair-first: if a repair will do the job, that's what we'll recommend, and if a five-minute DIY fix is all you need, we'll tell you that too — it's how a referral business stays one. Replacement only enters the conversation when repair honestly can't deliver.

It means more than you'd guess — reviews are how neighbors find us. The 'Review us on Google' link at the top of every page takes you straight to the five-star box on our Google listing.

Three quick tests separate them. If the door is heavy, grinding or shuddering through its travel, it is the rollers. If it slides acceptably but the latch no longer catches without lifting the handle, it is alignment — a panel that has sunk onto worn rollers, so the lock is a symptom rather than the fault. If it runs freely except at one point, something is in or damaged in the track. Tell us which of the three you have and we can usually name the likely cause before the visit. Detail lives on our symptom index.

When the frame is the problem rather than the hardware. That means a frame corroded through, structurally bent, or racked by a settled opening that cannot be brought back to square; a failed sill or surrounding structure; or a performance change the existing door cannot have, such as adding an impact rating. Age alone is not on that list, and neither is a door that sticks or will not lock. Frames and glass outlive their hardware by decades, which is why repair is the honest answer on the large majority of doors we see.

Regularly. The thing worth knowing before you call is that most Florida declarations split a slider: the glass and outer frame usually read as building envelope, while rollers, latch, lock and screen serve your unit alone and typically fall to the owner. Owner-side hardware does not need a board decision. Anything glass, frame or leak related is worth an email to your manager first. Our full guide is who pays for a condo slider.

Because an unused door corrodes faster than a used one. Salt aerosol settles on the bearing surfaces, and salt is hygroscopic, so it pulls moisture out of humid Florida air and holds a brine film against the metal. On a door in daily use, motion wipes that film away. On a door nobody touches for five months, it sits and works all summer. The prevention costs nothing: have whoever checks the property slide every door fully open and closed once a month, then lock it again.

Vacuum the track dry, once a month, and never spray oil in it. Florida yards are sand with grass on top, and quartz sand is harder than the aluminum track and harder than the steel in the rollers, so every pass of the door on an unswept track is a lapping operation grinding the two together. An oil-based spray makes it worse by turning that dust into grinding paste and gluing it into the roller housings. Our 10-minute routine is the whole method.

Two things above all. Clear the tracks and prove the weep holes on the exterior face actually drain, because most storm damage through a door is water backing up through blocked drainage rather than anything breaking. Then run the ten-second test: close the door, lock it, and try to lift and pull it open. Movement, rattle or a latch that needs coaxing means the door is not storm-ready. Book the work in spring; the same job competes with the entire coast for parts once a storm is named. Full checklist in our hurricane guide.

Repairs start at $275, and that figure includes parts, labor and a one-to-three-year warranty on both. What moves it from there is the door itself: panel weight, roller type, how much track damage accumulated while the door was dragging, and how many doors are being done in the same visit. Doing every slider in the house in one appointment is the economical way to use us, since the visit is shared across all of them. We explain which factors apply to your door before any work starts, and our cost guide covers the economics in depth.

We would rather answer this precisely than let one word do work it has not earned. SliderPro holds a Florida Business Tax Receipt — an occupational license, which is a local business registration to operate. That is not the same thing as a state contractor license, and companies that advertise "licensed" without saying which are relying on you not to ask. What we can stand behind is the work: five years in business, more than 1,600 doors repaired across the Treasure Coast, a one-to-three-year warranty on parts and labor, and 96% of jobs finished in a single visit.

Our Google listing currently shows a 5.0 rating from more than 170 reviews, we hold the Best of 2026 BusinessRate award, and we are recommended on Nextdoor by neighbors across the Treasure Coast. Those numbers are worth exactly what any set of numbers is worth, which is why we would rather you read the reviews themselves than take the average from us. The pattern we care about is the repeat one: repair-first advice, a straight explanation of what is worn, and a door that works when we leave.

We repair doors rather than install new ones, so the honest answer comes from the installer quoting you. The wait is usually the product, not the install: custom sizes and impact-rated units are made to order, and a permit adds its own steps. Ask for the lead time in writing and what happens to the opening meanwhile. If the frame is sound, a repair is often a one-visit job instead.

Yes, but it is a replacement and remodel job, not a repair. French doors swing, so you need clear floor space inside or out, a different threshold and new hardware, and in Florida the new unit needs to meet the wind requirements for your address. Check with your county building department before ordering. If the slider is simply hard to use, compare that cost against a repair; our sliding vs French door comparison lays out the trade-offs.

Usually, but widening an opening in an exterior wall is structural work. The header above the door carries load, so a wider opening generally needs a new header sized by a designer, plus a permit, an installer and a new door built for the new size. Ask your county building department what it requires for your address. None of that is repair work. If the real issue is a heavy or sticking door, new rollers may solve it for far less.

Repair it, in most cases. Buyers and inspectors notice whether the door glides, locks and seals, not how new it is. A door that drags or won't latch reads as a defect, while a sound frame with fresh rollers, an adjusted latch and an intact screen reads as cared for. Replacement before a sale rarely returns what it costs unless the frame or glass has actually failed. Start with a full tune-up of every slider in the house.

Look in a few places before calling anyone. Check the corners of the glass for an etched mark (that often names the glass fabricator, not the door maker), the edges of the frame and the head track for a stamped name or label, and any original paperwork or HOA records. Then photograph the roller housing and the lock from the panel edge, because those identify the parts. Our guide to identifying your door's brand and parts walks through it.

Yes, in most cases. A cracked, shattered or fogged pane is a question about that one panel, not the whole door. The frame, track and hardware usually carry on. The new glass has to match what the door was built with: tempered safety glass on a standard slider, or the approved laminated unit on an impact door, since swapping in a different type can take an impact assembly outside its rating. See how our sliding door glass replacement works.

Look in the corners of each pane for a small etched or sandblasted mark; tempered glass usually carries one naming the maker and a safety standard. Federal rules (16 CFR 1201) list patio-type sliding glass doors among the products that need safety glazing, so most sliders are tempered or laminated. No mark? Polarized sunglasses sometimes show faint stripes in tempered glass. If it ever breaks into small cubes, it was tempered; here's why tempered glass can shatter.

Usually. Look at the edge of the glass where it meets the frame: laminated impact glass shows two layers with a thin plastic interlayer between them. Many impact units also carry an etched mark or a manufacturer label in a corner. Your permit records at the county building department can confirm what was installed and when. A cracked pane that stays in place rather than falling out is another sign. More on how impact units are built.

No. Windshield resin works on laminated auto glass with a small chip, and a sliding door is a different case. Tempered glass can't be drilled or filled; a chip near the edge can make the whole pane fail later. A laminated impact pane that has cracked has lost part of its protective strength, and a fogged insulated unit can't be resealed. The fix is a new pane or glass unit in the existing frame. Start with our glass replacement service.

Heavier than it looks. A standard single-pane panel commonly runs around a hundred pounds, and a laminated impact panel of the same size can weigh more than double that, because it is two panes bonded around an interlayer. The load sits in a tall, thin sheet with nothing good to grip, which is why removing one is a two-person job. That weight is also why DIY roller swaps go wrong so often.

You can physically, but you shouldn't. An impact-rated door is a tested assembly: glass, frame, anchors and hardware were approved together. Fitting ordinary tempered glass into it takes that opening outside the rating it was installed under, which matters for storm protection and possibly for insurance and resale. The replacement should match the original laminated unit. Ask your county building department if you're unsure what applies. See our impact glass replacement page.

Replacing one generally does. Martin County's building department, for example, publishes a replacement window and door checklist that starts with a building permit application and the product approval for the new unit, under the 2023 Florida Building Code. Requirements vary by county and city, so check with your local building department for your address. Repair work such as rollers, locks and screens isn't a door replacement. See repair vs replace before you decide.

There's no single number. Doors are tested to a design pressure rating, and what a given door can take depends on that rating, its size, how it is anchored and where it sits on the house. Rated products in Florida carry a product approval, and you can look approvals up on the state's floridabuilding.org product approval search. Whatever the rating, it assumes the panel is seated and locked. Compare protection options in impact doors vs shutters.

No. NOAA's hurricane safety guidance is blunt that taping windows provides no protection against windborne debris, and it uses up time better spent on shutters or panels. Tape doesn't stop glass breaking and can leave larger pieces when it does. Close and lock the slider, deploy whatever opening protection you have, clear the track, and keep people away from the glass. The full sequence is in our hurricane prep checklist.

They can. Florida law (section 627.0629, Florida Statutes) requires residential property rate filings to include discounts or credits for windstorm loss-reduction features, and it names opening protection and window and door strength among them. How much you save depends on your insurer and policy, and features usually have to be documented through a wind mitigation inspection. Ask your agent first. Our impact vs shutters guide covers both options.

Yes. An impact rating is about debris and pressure, not about keeping every drop out. Wind drives rain horizontally into the track, and the weep holes are the only way it drains back out. If they're packed with sand and salt crust, the channel fills and overtops the sill, impact glass or not. A panel that has sagged also leaves gaps at the interlock. Clear the track and test drainage before the season, as in our leaking door guide.

There isn't one size that fits every door. Screen doors are built to the opening, and heights and widths vary by manufacturer and era, which is why a store-bought screen often won't run square in an older Florida track. Measure the opening from track to head and jamb to jamb, and note the frame depth and roller type. In most cases the existing frame can be kept and re-meshed instead. See our screen repair service.

Most screen doors have a small adjustment screw at each bottom corner, sometimes the top too. Lift the door slightly to take weight off the wheel, turn the screw a little at a time, and check that the door rides level and runs without rubbing. If the screw won't turn, the wheel is cracked, or the door still drops at one corner, the roller needs replacing. Our sliding screen door repair guide covers both.

Usually because the frame no longer meets the jamb squarely. A worn roller lets one corner drop, or tired mesh lets the light aluminum frame rack, so the latch lands above or below its catch. Check whether the gap at the latch side is even top to bottom and whether the door rides level. A bent catch or broken latch spring is the other cause. Both are covered in our screen door repair guide.

Fiberglass, for most coastal Florida homes. It doesn't corrode, it's easy to tension evenly, and it comes in no-see-um, pet and solar versions. Aluminum mesh is stiffer and resists tearing, but in salt air it oxidizes and turns white and brittle, and it dents rather than flexing back. Fiberglass does chalk in strong sun over the years, so plan on a re-screen eventually. More on fabric choices on our screen fabric repair page.

Yes. Pet flaps made for screens mount right in the mesh of a sliding screen door. Fit it low on the panel, and use pet-resistant mesh around it, since claws hit the fabric next to the flap far more than the flap itself. A big flap in a light frame can let the frame rack, so keep the mesh evenly tensioned and the rollers adjusted. Our screen fabric repair page covers pet mesh and re-screening.

Match the new handle to the old one before buying: the screw hole spacing, the length of the tailpiece that drives the lock, and which way the door opens. Most handles are through-bolted to a mortise lock buried in the panel edge. If the handle turns but nothing happens, the mortise or its linkage may be what failed, and a new handle won't fix that. Our handle replacement guide covers measuring and fitting.

Sometimes. Many sliders have no key at all, just an inside latch. Where the outside handle has a key cylinder, it can often be rekeyed or the cylinder swapped so it matches your other locks. Near the coast those cylinders also corrode, so a key that turns roughly may mean the cylinder needs replacing anyway. If the latch itself misses the keeper, rekeying won't help. See our sliding door lock repair page.

For new residential pools, Florida law (section 515.27, Florida Statutes) requires at least one safety feature from a short list. One option is an exit alarm on every door with direct access to the pool; another is a self-closing, self-latching device with its release at least 54 inches above the floor. A fence enclosure, a safety cover or a pool alarm are the alternatives. Your building department can confirm what applies. See pool-facing slider hardware.

A charley bar is a hinged bar mounted on the fixed panel that folds down across the moving panel, so the door can't slide open even if the latch is defeated. It works well against sliding and it's visible from outside, which deters. It does nothing against the panel being lifted out of its track, so pair it with a properly adjusted panel and an anti-lift device. More in our sliding door security guide.

The connection between the handle and the lock. Inside the panel edge, the handle drives the latch hook through a spindle or linkage, and when that strips or breaks, the handle turns freely with no resistance at the end of the throw. Sometimes it's just loose screws letting the handle slip. Test whether the hook moves at all. If it doesn't, the mortise or linkage needs work. Our won't-lock guide covers the other causes.

Usually the through-bolts holding the inside and outside handles together have backed out with use, or the screw holes in the aluminum have stripped. On coastal doors the screws can also corrode and snap. Tighten them gently with the right screwdriver; if they spin without biting or the head rounds off, stop before it gets worse. A loose handle can also hide a worn mortise lock. See our handle replacement guide.

Almost always, and you need it before you order. Associations usually treat the outer frame and glass as building envelope and control anything visible from outside, such as frame color and glass tint. Expect a written scope, the product specification, an architectural review and vendor requirements. Custom doors ordered in an unapproved finish aren't returnable. Our guide to who is responsible for a condo slider explains the vocabulary to use.

It depends on what broke it. Florida's landlord-tenant law (section 83.51, Florida Statutes) says the landlord isn't responsible for conditions caused by the tenant's negligent or wrongful act, or by family or guests. Normal wear, like rollers worn out by years of use, is a different matter, and your lease spells out the details. Report changes in how the door works in writing as soon as you notice. See our rental slider checklist.

In apartments and other multi-unit rentals, generally yes. Section 83.51(2)(a), Florida Statutes, requires landlords of dwelling units other than single-family homes and duplexes to make reasonable provision for locks and keys, unless the lease says otherwise in writing. Single-family and duplex rentals depend more on the lease. Either way, put the request in writing. A slider that won't latch is usually an alignment problem, not a broken lock.

Often only with permission. An insert panel that sits in the slider track is visible from outside, so associations with uniform-appearance rules may want to approve it, and a landlord will usually want a say too. Ask in writing first. Inserts also cause a practical problem: they often sit over the weep holes and let grit pack under them, so lift yours out at least once a year and clean the rail beneath. Our track cleaning guide covers inserts.

In many buildings, yes. Florida law (section 718.112(2)(g), Florida Statutes) lists windows and exterior doors among the items a structural integrity reserve study must cover, for buildings three habitable stories or higher. The study plans the association's reserves; it doesn't change who maintains your rollers and latch, which your declaration decides. Ask management how the study treats sliders. More in our oceanfront condo slider guide.

Yes, within limits. Section 718.111(5), Florida Statutes, gives the association a right of access to each unit during reasonable hours when it's needed to maintain, repair or replace common elements, or to prevent damage to the common elements or a unit. If the association owns the frame or glass, that can include your slider. Ask management for notice and a written scope. Our condo responsibility guide covers the split.